In the easternmost portion of the Fremont-Winema National Forest, the southern section of the Fremont National Recreation Trail #160 climbs uphill to the east of US 395 about 7.5 miles along Crooked Creek, eventually crossing Forest Road 3615 to a trailhead along the east side of the road. The trail then climbs upwards towards a saddle between Twelvemile and Light Peaks where it then turns north and proceeds along the western slopes of Twelvemile (8144') and McDowell Peaks (7654') before dipping into a forested saddle to then climb across the southern slopes of Crook Peak (7834') before slowly descending the east slopes of Crook Peak to arrive at the Swale trailhead along Forest Road 3720. The trail then descends northward into the canyon of Honey Creek before climbing up to Vee Lake Campground. One can continue north on the Oregon Desert Trail roughly following the crest of Abert Rim. The latter is more of a route than a trail.
If you want scenery and solitude, then this is a hike for you. The trail does not get many visits per year, and as a result, the tread can be very faint at points, especially early in the season when covered by annual wildflowers and winter debris. We accessed the trail from the Swale trailhead and headed north along a very faint trail from FS Rd 3720 down to Swale Creek. The Forest Service had recently hung red glagging on branches to denote the way. Once over Swale Creek, the trail was more evident, although recent forest thinning and slash burning combined with crossing game trails made the trail difficult to find until we had passed spur roads 104, 105 and 106. Look for the distinctive red-white and blue trail markers on trees as well as trail tread (sometimes reduced to a faint depression running along the slope). We did talk to the forest service staff afterwards, and they hoped student volunteers would be working to improve the trail tread to aid navigation, but I'd recommend (for the moment) the trail for those who are good at route finding.
The trail climbs the NE corner of Crook Peak through a forest of large ponderosa pines, eventually opening to east-facing slopes of mountain big sagebrush. About 2 miles south of the Swale trailhead we came across a steep, narrow snow chute crossing the trail. The snow was icy, so we elected to clamber down through the dense bittercherry trees and around the base of the snow patch to then climb back to the trail at a scenic bald at the SE corner of Crook Peak. It was a difficult climb, taking us about half an hour or so, and several mild falls to get around. I'd guess the snowpatch doesn't melt out until about the Fourth of July. This bald is worth a stop to enjoy the sweeping views east across the Warner Basin to Hart Mountain and south to Drake and Light Peaks. There were many interesting rock garden wildflowers there as well.
The trail then levels out and crosses the south-facing slope of Crook Peak where we noted the first weeds along the trail. Evidently cattle graze this high later in the summer and fall. The trail then descends into conifer forest, crosses a faint spur road in the saddle, then climbs the NW slopes of McDowell Peak in several switchbacks. The trail then leaves the forest and crosses open mountain big sagebrush slopes where we noted large patches of Brown's peony, stony ground lupine and upland larkspur. We noted scenic views northwest to nearby Abert Rim and we could see tents and a trailer at Vee Lake to the north. We turned around as we were nearing the saddle between McDowell and Twelvemile Peaks since it was getting late in the afternoon. Hikes with lots of wildflowers and scenic views often make it difficult to get as far as you'd like!
Drive north of Lakeview, OR about 5 miles on US Highway 395. Turn right (east) onto Oregon Highway 140 for about 8 miles to the only major 4-way junction east of the Warner Summit. Turn left onto paved Forest Rd 3615 and drive north uphill for about 6.8 miles, passing Bull Prairie, Mud Creek Forest Camp, Aspen Cabin and the turnoff for Drake Peak Lookout. You'll reach the South Fork Crooked Creek Ttrailhead on the right side of the road at about 10 miles north of OR 140. This is about a 45 minute drive from Lakeview. The trailhead has a vault toilet but no potable water. It provides access to the Fremont National Recreation Trail #160 as it descends Crooked Creek towards the Mill Creek Trailhead off US 395 (about 7.5 miles). One can also access the Crane Mountain Trail #161 which heads west then south around Bull Prairie to the Walker Trailhead on FS Rd 3615. To hike either trail, cross FS Rd 3615 and look for signage indicating where to proceed. Be aware that downed trees may make route finding difficult early in season, so contact the Lakeview Ranger District office in Lakeview, OR for current trail conditions.
One can also hike the Fremont National Recreation Trail #160 uphill to the east from the South Fork Crooked Creek Trailhead. Hike uphill about 0.1 miles to a three way fork. Follow the middle fork steeply upwards another 0.6 miles to an old fenceline where it turns northward and makes several short switchbacks before slowly ascending the west slopes of Twelvemile Peak. Evidently, the trail can be hard to follow so look for the bright red, white and blue trail markers and faint tread as you near the fenceline.
To reach the Swale Trailhead, continue on FS Road 3615 to about 12.8 miles north of OR 140. Turn right onto gravel FS Rd 3720 for about 5.7 miles. The road into the trailhead is unsigned but look for a distinct red, white and blue recreation trail emblem on a tree on the right side of the road. This will be at a point just past where the road had curved SE to cross a small creek (Swale Creek) and then turns NE again. The unsigned spur road heads north about 100 yards to a wide turn around. There is not a vault toilet or potable water at this trailhead. Park and you'll need to walk the access road back to FS Road 3720, looking for the recreation trail emblem, red flagging, and faint tread heading south to Swale Creek to find the trail up to Crook Peak. Alternatively, the Fremont National Recreation Trail #160 continues north towards Vee Lake from the northwest corner of the trailhead. It's tread should be easy to find. We have yet to hike that section.
Ponderosa pines, mountain big sagebrush, low sagebrush and mountain mahogany dominate much of the trail. Interesting bald plants to observe about 2 miles south of the Swale Trailhead include mat buckwheat, prickly sandwort, threadstalk milkvetch, goosefoot violet, sticky geranium, ballhead gilia, Hood's phlox, moss phlox, western mountain balm, hairy paintbrush, showy penstemon, yellow desert daisy and stemless goldenweed. See the list directly below for additional flowers to be seen along this route.
More Comprehensive Wildflower List for Crook and northern McDowell Peaks
July 17, 2022: Fremont National Recreation Trail #160 from Swale Trailhead south to the SE Slopes of Crook Peak, North Warner Mts, Fremont-Winema National Forest - Note that the large, steep snow chute that blocked the trail on the SE corner of Crook Peak in late June 2019 was melted out (just barely).
June 28, 2019: Fremont National Recreation Trail #160 from Swale Trailhead south to the SW Slopes of McDowell Peak, North Warner Mts, Fremont-Winema National Forest - Note: A large, steep snow chutet blocks the trail on the SE corner of Crook Peak. It took us over half an hour to get around it by dropping below the trail through a dense patch of aspens and negotiating the very steep terrain.
Swale Trailhead:- Fremont-Winema National Forest website
Fremont National Recreation Trail #160: Southern Segment - Fremont-Winema National Forest website
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